Why I Stopped Trusting OTC Hair and Skincare Brands
- Amani AbouAmmo
- Apr 27
- 7 min read
Updated: Jun 9
Table of Content
Real-World Product Analysis: What’s Really Inside Popular Brands
- Example 1: Living Proof Curl Definer
- Example 2: CHI Keratin Mist
Building a Cleaner Routine: What to Look for (and What to Avoid)
How to Use EWG.org to Check Products and Ingredients
Rethinking Retinol: The Risks, the Research, and a Natural Solution
- My Research Journey Into Natural Alternatives
- Oil-Based Serum vs Synthetic Retinol: A Comparison
Still Have Questions? Let’s Cover the Basics
Conclusion
My Awakening: The Need for Ingredient Awareness
Years ago, like many people, I trusted the glossy marketing claims on skincare and haircare products. Terms like “nourishment,” “repair,” and “protection” felt reassuring. But my perspective changed once I delved into formulation science and ingredient safety.
The deeper I explored, the more I discovered troubling truths. Many so-called “trusted” brands used harsh chemicals, cheap fillers, and undisclosed fragrance blends. These ingredients can irritate, sensitize, or even disrupt the skin barrier over time.
One particularly eye-opening revelation was learning that in the U.S., the FDA does not require cosmetic companies to disclose the chemicals inside “fragrance.” This means a single word on a label can hide dozens of synthetic compounds, including potential allergens, hormone disruptors, and irritants. Source: FDA on Fragrance Ingredients.
Realizing this was a significant turning point for me. I decided to stop blindly trusting brands and began researching the actual ingredients behind the marketing claims.
Real-World Product Analysis: What’s Really Inside Popular Brands
To illustrate the importance of ingredient awareness, let’s break down some real examples of popular, mainstream products.
These analyses are not a critique of the brands, but rather an effort to empower you with knowledge for making safer, healthier choices.
Example 1: Living Proof Curl Definer
Brand: Living Proof
Product: Curl Definer for Curly Hair
At first glance, the Living Proof Curl Definer sounds promising. It boasts hydrating oils, strengtheners, and “frizz control” for curls. However, examining the ingredients reveals a more complex picture.
Full Ingredients List:
Water (Aqua/Eau)
Myristyl Alcohol
Cetyl Alcohol
Propanediol
Octafluoropentyl Methacrylate
Propylene Glycol Dibenzoate
Brassica Alcohol
Brassicyl Valinate Esylate
Cetrimonium Chloride
Ricinoleamidopropyl Ethyldimonium Ethosulfate
Sodium Grapeseedamidopropyl PG-Dimonium Chloride Phosphate
Jojoba Esters
Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter
Squalane
Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Wax
Pectin
Zea Mays (Corn) Starch
Behenyl/Stearyl Aminopropanediol Esters
Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose
Chitosan
Hydroxyethylcellulose
Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride
Polyquaternium-37
PVM/MA Copolymer
Ethylhexylglycerin
Polyquaternium-10
Polyquaternium-11
VP/DMAPA Acrylates Copolymer
Cetrimonium Methosulfate
Fragrance (Parfum)
Polyquaternium-7
Polyquaternium-4
Polyquaternium-67
Disiloxane
Trimethylsiloxyamodimethicone
PEG-12 Dimethicone
PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate
PPG-1 Trideceth-6
Polyquaternium-28
Isopropyl Alcohol
Polyquaternium-39
Methylthio Propylamidopropyltrimonium Chloride/Acrylamide Copolymer
Glycerin
Methylpropanediol
Tocopherol (Vitamin E)
Citric Acid
Sodium Hydroxide
Coumarin
Hexyl Cinnamal
Linalool
Limonene
Citral
Benzyl Salicylate
Quick Ingredient Red Flags:
| Red Flag Ingredient | Why It Matters |
|---------------------------------------|------------------------------------------------------------------|
| Octafluoropentyl Methacrylate | Fluorochemical with persistence in environment and body. |
| Polyquaternium Series | Synthetic polymers that cause buildup and dullness over time. |
| Silicone Derivatives | Can coat hair artificially without true nourishment. |
| Fragrance (Parfum) | Undisclosed blend with potential allergens and hormone disruptors.|
| Common Fragrance Allergens (Linalool, Coumarin) | Linked to sensitization and allergic reactions. |
What This Tells Us About the Formula
Despite marketing that emphasizes nourishment and hydration for curls, Living Proof Curl Definer relies heavily on synthetic polymers, silicones, and artificial fragrance compounds.
While it does contain some beneficial natural ingredients, such as Shea Butter and Jojoba Esters, the synthetic components may impact the scalp barrier and contribute to long-term dryness or dullness, especially for those seeking to maintain healthy curls naturally.
This case underscores the importance of reading full ingredient lists. Even high-end brands often mix natural-sounding marketing with a heavy synthetic base.
Example 2: CHI Keratin Mist
Brand: CHI
Product: Keratin Mist
Another product that appears promising at first. Words like “keratin,” “silk,” and “strength” catch the eye — particularly if you desire smoother, shinier hair. But what does the real formulation tell us?
Full Ingredients List:
Water (Aqua/Eau)
PEG-12 Dimethicone
Hydrolyzed Keratin
Hydrolyzed Silk
Anthemis Nobilis (Chamomile) Flower Extract
Mentha Piperita (Peppermint) Leaf Extract
Salvia Officinalis (Sage) Leaf Extract
Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Extract
Polysorbate 20
Cetrimonium Chloride
Polyquaternium-80
Phenoxyethanol
Caprylyl Glycol
Fragrance (Parfum)
Titanium Dioxide (CI 77891)
Coumarin
Geraniol
Hexyl Cinnamal
Linalool
Yellow 5 (CI 19140)
Quick Ingredient Red Flags:
| Red Flag Ingredient | Why It Matters |
|---------------------------------------|------------------------------------------------------------------|
| PEG-12 Dimethicone | Coats hair instead of truly repairing it. |
| Polysorbate 20 | Potential for contamination with ethylene oxide. |
| Cetrimonium Chloride | Irritation risk for sensitive skin/scalps. |
| Phenoxyethanol | Can cause skin, eye, and lung irritation. |
| Fragrance | Undisclosed chemical blend. |
What This Tells Us About the Formula
While CHI Keratin Mist showcases natural proteins like Hydrolyzed Keratin and Silk, the formula relies heavily on synthetics to achieve texture and shine.
The challenge is that synthetic silicones and polyquaterniums coat the hair, rather than healing or strengthening it at the cellular level. Additionally, chemical fragrances and unnecessary dyes can increase irritation risk for both hair and scalp, especially with repeated use.
Key takeaway:
Marketing terms like “keratin” and “botanicals” often do not reflect the overall safety or integrity of the product.
What These Examples Teach Us
These mainstream products illustrate some important lessons:
Natural extracts are often token ingredients, used sparingly in otherwise synthetic-heavy formulas.
Terms such as “keratin,” “botanical,” or “silk” frequently occur in tiny percentages, often serving marketing rather than genuine formulation integrity.
Harsh chemical additives, including synthetic polymers and fragrances, dominate most over-the-counter products.
Fragrance remains a significant hidden risk, obscuring dozens of undisclosed chemicals.
Thus, becoming an ingredient reader — rather than merely a brand believer — is vital for anyone serious about preserving their skin, hair, and long-term health.
Building a Cleaner Routine: What to Look for (and What to Avoid)
Choosing better products can feel daunting, but it becomes empowering with the right knowledge. Here are some basic guidelines to follow:
What to Look for:
Plant-Based Oils and Butters (e.g., jojoba oil, rosehip, shea butter)
Botanical Extracts (e.g., chamomile, rosemary, aloe vera)
Naturally Derived Actives (e.g., bakuchiol, cacay oil, vitamin C from fruits)
Mild Preservatives (e.g., potassium sorbate, sodium benzoate, instead of parabens)
What to Avoid:
Fragrance (Parfum) — unless specifically listed as “natural essential oils.”
PEGs and PPGs — petroleum-based synthetic compounds.
Silicones — any ingredient ending in “-cone,” “-siloxane,” or “-silicate.”
Synthetic Colorants and Dyes (e.g., Yellow 5, Red 40)
Quaternary Ammonium Compounds — like cetrimonium chloride.
Pro Tip: If you can’t easily recognize or pronounce more than half of the ingredients in a product, it’s worth investigating further.
How to Use EWG.org to Check Products and Ingredients
One of the most empowering steps toward cleaner beauty is learning to analyze products yourself rather than relying solely on marketing.
Luckily, resources like the EWG Skin Deep® Database simplify this process.
Here’s a step-by-step guide to follow:
Step 1: Go to the EWG Skin Deep® Website
Visit ewg.org/skindeep, the Environmental Working Group’s searchable online database.
Step 2: Search for a Product or Ingredient
If you know the product name, input it into the search bar.
If you’re curious about a specific ingredient (like “PEG-12 Dimethicone” or “Fragrance”), enter that instead.
Step 3: Understand the Safety Rating System
The EWG assigns a hazard score between 1 to 10:
1–2 (Green): Low Hazard
3–6 (Yellow): Moderate Hazard
7–10 (Red): High Hazard
Aim for products where the majority of ingredients fall within the 1–2 range.
Step 4: Dive Deeper
Click on an ingredient to discover:
What it does (e.g., moisturizer, emulsifier, fragrance)
Concerns (e.g., cancer risk, irritation potential, reproductive toxicity)
Regulatory status (banned or restricted in other countries?)
Step 5: Apply What You Learn
As you become familiar with using EWG, spotting hidden risks in your daily products will become second nature, making it easier to switch to safer options.
Bonus Tip: Double-check products yourself, even if a brand claims to be “clean,” as ingredient lists can change between batches!
Rethinking Retinol: The Risks, the Research, and a Natural Solution
For years, retinol has been hailed as the gold standard for anti-aging skincare. However, recent research has revealed potential downsides:
Increased sensitivity and skin barrier disruption
High risk of irritation, peeling, and redness
Significant sun sensitivity that necessitates strict SPF use
Certain concentrations of retinol and its derivatives have even been restricted in parts of Europe due to concerns about long-term skin health and systemic absorption.
Recognizing the need for a gentler, more sustainable approach to skin renewal, I developed a botanical-based oil serum that offers retinol-like benefits without the harsh effects. This led to creating TimeDrop — designed to support the skin’s natural repair processes with plant-derived actives.
To help clarify the differences, I’ve compiled the following comparison table based on scientific research and clinical trials:
Still Have Questions? Let’s Cover the Basics
Long-term use of retinol can thin the skin’s protective barrier and increase sensitivity, particularly if not balanced with hydration and barrier repair.
Common issues include redness, peeling, sun sensitivity, dryness, and barrier disruption — especially when starting out or if overused.
Yes! Studies indicate that Bakuchiol can deliver similar smoothing and collagen-boosting benefits as retinol, but without irritation or sun sensitivity.
Absolutely! TimeDrop was specifically formulated to support the skin barrier, yielding results gently, making it suitable for sensitive and reactive skin types.
Always read the full ingredient list and utilize tools like the EWG Skin Deep Database to research any unfamiliar ingredients.
Yes — thoughtfully formulated natural ingredients can match or even outperform their synthetic alternatives, providing real benefits without harsh side effects.
Conclusion
Ultimately, what we choose to apply to our skin reflects our values regarding long-term health over short-term promises.
Clean, thoughtful skincare isn’t merely achievable — it’s transformative. It starts with understanding, questioning, and improving your choices every step of the way.
You don’t need to compromise on results to safeguard your skin. Choose formulations that align with your body — not against it.
Want More Insights Like This?
If you found this guide helpful and wish to continue learning about safer skincare, cleaner beauty, and ingredient transparency, I’d love to stay connected!
Disclaimer
The product analyses and ingredient evaluations provided in this post are for educational and informational purposes only. They are based on publicly available information at the time of writing. Product formulations may change, and readers are encouraged to verify ingredient lists and conduct their own research before making purchasing decisions. No affiliation, sponsorship, or endorsement with the brands mentioned is intended or implied.
My goal is to empower informed choices and encourage a deeper understanding of what we apply to our skin and hair daily.
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