Why I Stopped Trusting OTC Skincare: A Formulator’s Guide to safer skincare alternatives
- Amani AbouAmmo
- Apr 27
- 7 min read
Updated: Apr 29
My Journey as a Formulator: Why I Stopped Trusting OTC Brands
Table of Content
Real-World Product Analysis: What’s Really Inside Popular Brands
Building a Cleaner Routine: What to Look for (and What to Avoid)
Rethinking Retinol: The Risks, the Research, and a Natural Solution
Golden oil droplet resting gently on a soft flower petal Years ago, like many people, I trusted the glossy marketing claims on skincare and haircare bottles.
The promises of “nourishment,” “repair,” and “protection” felt reassuring — until I started studying formulation science and ingredient safety in depth.
The deeper I dug into ingredients, the more troubling it became.
Many “trusted” brands were using harsh chemicals, cheap fillers, and undisclosed fragrance blends that could irritate, sensitise, or even disrupt the skin barrier long-term.
One eye-opening moment was learning that in the U.S., the FDA does not require cosmetic companies to disclose the chemicals inside “fragrance”.
This means a single word — “Fragrance” — on a label can hide dozens of synthetic compounds, including potential allergens, hormone disruptors, and irritants.
Realizing this was a turning point for me:
I decided to stop blindly trusting what brands were selling — and started digging into the actual ingredients behind the marketing.
Real-World Product Analysis: What’s Really Inside Popular Brands
To show you exactly why ingredient awareness matters, I’ve broken down real examples of popular, mainstream products.
These breakdowns are not to attack brands, but to empower you with the knowledge to make safer, healthier choices.
Example 1: Living Proof Curl Definer
Brand: Living Proof
Product: Curl Definer for Curly Hair
At first glance, Living Proof Curl Definer sounds promising. It mentions hydrating oils, strengtheners, and “frizz control” for curls.
But what’s inside the bottle tells a fuller story.
Full Ingredients List:
Water (Aqua/Eau)
Myristyl Alcohol
Cetyl Alcohol
Propanediol
Octafluoropentyl Methacrylate
Propylene Glycol Dibenzoate
Brassica Alcohol
Brassicyl Valinate Esylate
Cetrimonium Chloride
Ricinoleamidopropyl Ethyldimonium Ethosulfate
Sodium Grapeseedamidopropyl PG-Dimonium Chloride Phosphate
Jojoba Esters
Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter
Squalane
Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Wax
Pectin
Zea Mays (Corn) Starch
Behenyl/Stearyl Aminopropanediol Esters
Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose
Chitosan
Hydroxyethylcellulose
Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride
Polyquaternium-37
PVM/MA Copolymer
Ethylhexylglycerin
Polyquaternium-10
Polyquaternium-11
VP/DMAPA Acrylates Copolymer
Cetrimonium Methosulfate
Fragrance (Parfum)
Polyquaternium-7
Polyquaternium-4
Polyquaternium-67
Disiloxane
Trimethylsiloxyamodimethicone
PEG-12 Dimethicone
PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate
PPG-1 Trideceth-6
Polyquaternium-28
Isopropyl Alcohol
Polyquaternium-39
Methylthio Propylamidopropyltrimonium Chloride/Acrylamide Copolymer
Glycerin
Methylpropanediol
Tocopherol (Vitamin E)
Citric Acid
Sodium Hydroxide
Coumarin
Hexyl Cinnamal
Linalool
Limonene
Citral
Benzyl Salicylate
Quick Ingredient Red Flags:
Red Flag Ingredient | Why It Matters |
Octafluoropentyl Methacrylate | Fluorochemical, persistence in environment and body (“forever chemical”). |
Polyquaternium Series | Synthetic polymers causing buildup and dullness over time. |
Silicone Derivatives | Coat hair artificially without true nourishment. |
Fragrance (Parfum) | Undisclosed chemical blend with potential allergens and hormone disruptors. |
Common Fragrance Allergens (Linalool, Coumarin) | Linked to sensitization and allergic reactions. |
What This Tells Us About the Formula
Despite marketing that focuses on nourishing and hydrating curls, Living Proof Curl Definer heavily relies on synthetic polymers, silicones, and artificial fragrance compounds.
While it does include some beneficial natural ingredients like Shea Butter and Jojoba Esters, the synthetic load could impact the scalp barrier, cause buildup on hair, and contribute to long-term dryness or dullness — especially for those trying to maintain healthy curls naturally.
This is exactly why reading full ingredient lists matters — even high-end brands often mix natural-sounding marketing with a heavy synthetic base.
Example 2: CHI Keratin Mist
Brand: CHI
Product: Keratin Mist
Another product that sounds very promising on the surface.
Words like “keratin,” “silk,” and “strength” draw people in — especially if you’re seeking smoother, shinier hair.
But let’s dig into the actual formulation.
Full Ingredients List:
Water (Aqua/Eau)
PEG-12 Dimethicone
Hydrolyzed Keratin
Hydrolyzed Silk
Anthemis Nobilis (Chamomile) Flower Extract
Mentha Piperita (Peppermint) Leaf Extract
Salvia Officinalis (Sage) Leaf Extract
Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Extract
Polysorbate 20
Cetrimonium Chloride
Polyquaternium-80
Phenoxyethanol
Caprylyl Glycol
Fragrance (Parfum)
Titanium Dioxide (CI 77891)
Coumarin
Geraniol
Hexyl Cinnamal
Linalool
Yellow 5 (CI 19140)
Mild vs Potentially Harmful Ingredients Comparison
Quick Ingredient Red Flags:
Red Flag Ingredient | Why It Matters |
PEG-12 Dimethicone | Coats hair instead of truly repairing it. |
Polysorbate 20 | Potential for contamination with ethylene oxide. |
Cetrimonium Chloride | Irritation risk for sensitive skin/scalps. |
Phenoxyethanol | Can cause skin, eye, and lung irritation. |
Fragrance | Undisclosed chemical blend. |
Synthetic Dyes (Yellow 5) | Adds no benefit, possible allergen. |
What This Tells Us About the Formula
While CHI Keratin Mist highlights natural proteins like Hydrolyzed Keratin and Silk, the formula leans heavily on synthetics to achieve texture, detangling, and shine.
The problem?
Synthetic silicones and polyquaterniums coat the hair — they don’t heal or strengthen it at the cellular level.
Meanwhile, chemical fragrances and unnecessary dyes can increase irritation risk for both hair and scalp, especially with repeated use.
Key takeaway:
Marketing words like “keratin” and “botanicals” don’t always reflect the overall safety or integrity of the full product.
What These Examples Teach Us
Looking closer at these mainstream products gives us a clear picture:
Natural extracts are often token ingredients — sprinkled into otherwise synthetic-heavy formulas.
Terms like “keratin,” “botanical,” or “silk” often exist in tiny percentages — mainly for marketing appeal.
Harsh chemical additives like synthetic polymers, fragrances, and emulsifiers dominate most over-the-counter products.
Fragrance remains one of the biggest hidden risks, masking dozens of undisclosed chemicals.
This is why becoming an ingredient reader — not just a brand believer — is crucial for anyone serious about protecting their skin, hair, and long-term health.
Building a Cleaner Routine: What to Look for (and What to Avoid)
Choosing better products doesn’t have to feel overwhelming.
In fact, it becomes empowering once you know the basic rules of thumb:
What to Look for:
Plant-Based Oils and Butters (like jojoba oil, rosehip, shea butter)
Botanical Extracts (chamomile, rosemary, aloe vera)
Naturally Derived Actives (bakuchiol, cacay oil, vitamin C from fruits)
Mild Preservatives (like potassium sorbate, sodium benzoate, instead of parabens)
What to Avoid:
Fragrance (Parfum) — unless it’s specifically listed as “natural essential oils.”
PEGs and PPGs — petroleum-based synthetic compounds.
Silicones — ingredients ending in “-cone,” “-siloxane,” or “-silicate.”
Synthetic Colorants and Dyes (Yellow 5, Red 40, etc.)
Quaternary Ammonium Compounds — like cetrimonium chloride.
Pro Tip: If you can’t easily recognize or pronounce more than half of the ingredients in a product — it’s worth a second look.
How to Use EWG.org to Check Products and Ingredients
One of the most empowering steps you can take toward cleaner beauty is learning to analyze products yourself — not just relying on a brand’s marketing.
Thankfully, resources like the EWG Skin Deep® Database make this process accessible and easy.
Here’s a step-by-step guide you can follow:
Step 1: Go to the EWG Skin Deep® Website
Visit ewg.org/skindeep, the Environmental Working Group’s searchable online database.
Step 2: Search for a Product or Ingredient
If you know the product name, type it into the search bar.
If you’re curious about a single ingredient (like “PEG-12 Dimethicone” or “Fragrance”), type that instead.
Step 3: Understand the Safety Rating System
The EWG assigns a hazard score between 1 to 10:
1–2 (Green): Low Hazard
3–6 (Yellow): Moderate Hazard
7–10 (Red): High Hazard
Always aim for products where the majority of ingredients fall within the 1–2 range.
Step 4: Dive Deeper
Click on an ingredient to learn:
What it does (e.g., moisturizer, emulsifier, fragrance)
Concerns (e.g., cancer risk, irritation potential, reproductive toxicity)
Regulatory status (banned or restricted in other countries?)
Step 5: Apply What You Learn
The more you use EWG, the faster you’ll spot hidden risks in your daily products — and the easier it becomes to switch to safer alternatives.
Bonus Tip: Always double-check products yourself, even if a brand claims to be “clean” — ingredients can quietly change between batches!
Thinking Retinol? Think again!
Retinol has long been considered the gold standard for anti-aging skincare. Yet despite its popularity, more research has revealed its potential downsides:
Increased sensitivity and skin barrier disruption
High risk of irritation, peeling, and redness
Significant sun sensitivity requiring strict SPF use
In fact, certain concentrations of retinol and its derivatives have already been restricted in parts of Europe due to growing concerns about long-term skin health and systemic absorption.
Recognizing the need for a gentler, more sustainable approach to skin renewal, I formulated a botanical-based oil serum that offers retinol-like benefits without the harsh effects. This led to the creation of TimeDrop — designed to support the skin’s natural repair process with powerful plant-derived actives.
To help clarify the differences, I’ve compiled the following comparison table based on scientific research, clinical trials, and careful formulation work:
Still Have Questions? Let’s Cover the Basics
Is retinol safe for long-term use?
Long-term use can thin the skin’s protective barrier and increase sensitivity if not properly balanced with hydration and barrier repair.
What are the side effects of synthetic retinol?
Redness, peeling, sun sensitivity, dryness, and barrier disruption are common — especially when first starting or if overused.
Can natural alternatives like Bakuchiol really replace retinol?
Yes! Studies have shown that Bakuchiol can deliver similar smoothing and collagen-boosting benefits as retinol, without irritation or sun sensitivity.
Is TimeDrop safe for sensitive skin types?
Absolutely. TimeDrop was formulated specifically to support the skin barrier and deliver results gently, making it suitable for sensitive and reactive skin types.
How can I check if a product is truly safe?
Always read the full ingredient list and use tools like the EWG Skin Deep Database to research unfamiliar ingredients.
Can natural skincare really be as effective as synthetic formulas?
Yes — when thoughtfully formulated, natural ingredients can match or even outperform synthetic alternatives, offering real benefits without harsh side effects.
Conclusion
At the end of the day, what we choose to put on our skin is a reflection of how much we value long-term health over short-term promises.
Clean, thoughtful skincare isn’t just possible — it’s powerful.
And it starts with understanding, questioning, and choosing better every step of the way.
You don’t have to compromise on results to protect your skin.
You simply need to choose formulations that work with your body — not against it.
Want More Insights Like This?
If you found this guide helpful and want to keep learning about safer skincare, cleaner beauty, and ingredient transparency, I’d love to stay connected!
Disclaimer
The product analyses and ingredient evaluations provided in this post are for educational and informational purposes only. They are based on publicly available information at the time of writing. Product formulations may change, and readers are encouraged to verify ingredient lists and conduct their own research before making purchasing decisions. No affiliation, sponsorship, or endorsement with the brands mentioned is intended or implied.
My goal is to empower informed choices and encourage deeper understanding of what we apply to our skin and hair every day.
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